Ghost Mannequin Photography London | Motherlight
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Invisible mannequin

Invisible mannequin photography in London.

Garments that hold their own shape, with the mannequin taken out in post. Shot in Shoreditch and retouched in the same building.

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Ghost mannequin photography, also called invisible mannequin or hollow man, is a technique where a garment is photographed on a mannequin which is then removed in post production. The clothing keeps its three dimensional shape with nothing inside it, showing fit and structure that a flat lay cannot.

Also called invisible mannequinShot and retouched in houseShoreditch, London N1

How it is done

Two exposures, one garment.

The garment is shot on the mannequin as normal, lit so the fabric shows its weight and texture. Then the piece is turned and the inside of the collar, cuffs and hem are shot separately, because those are the parts the mannequin was hiding.

In post the frames are combined and the mannequin is removed, leaving the neckline and openings looking the way they would if someone had just stepped out of the garment. Done properly the seam is invisible and the shoulders keep their real line.

Done badly it is very obvious: collars that float, shoulders that collapse, an inside back that does not line up with the outside. It is a retouching job as much as a shooting one, which is why we keep both under the same roof.

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When to use it

Ghost mannequin, flat lay or on model

Use ghost mannequin

For structured pieces where shape matters: shirting, tailoring, outerwear, denim and knitwear that would go shapeless flat.

Use flat lay

For accessories, basics and soft pieces where fit is not the deciding factor, and where speed per SKU matters more.

Use on model

For the pieces actually driving the range, where drape, scale and how it sits on a body are what convert.

Use more than one

Most catalogues do. Ghost mannequin for the bulk of the range, on model for the hero pieces, detail shots for fabric and hardware.

Practical

What makes a good ghost mannequin shoot

What helps

  • Samples in the size that fits the mannequin properly
  • Garments steamed before they reach the set
  • A spec sheet, so crops and angles are consistent across the range
  • Consistent hanger and collar treatment across the whole drop

What to watch for

  • Pieces too soft to hold any shape, which flat lay better
  • Heavy embellishment that fights the mannequin line
  • Sizes that swamp the form and lose the real fit
  • Mixed necklines across a range shot to a single crop

Invisible mannequin

Common questions

What is ghost mannequin photography?

It is a product photography technique where clothing is shot on a mannequin and the mannequin is removed during retouching, so the garment appears to hold its own shape with nothing inside it. It is also known as invisible mannequin or hollow man photography.

Why use ghost mannequin instead of a flat lay?

Because it shows fit and structure. A flat lay flattens the shoulder line and hides how a collar sits or how a jacket falls. For structured pieces such as shirting, tailoring and outerwear, ghost mannequin communicates the shape of the garment far more accurately, which is exactly what reduces returns.

Is ghost mannequin cheaper than shooting on a model?

Generally yes, because there is no model, no casting and no hair and makeup, and the shoot moves faster per piece. The trade is that it cannot show scale or how something looks on a body, so most ranges use it alongside a smaller run of on model ecommerce shots.

Do you do the retouching as well as the shoot?

Yes, in house at the Shoreditch studio. Ghost mannequin is as much a retouching job as a shooting one, and splitting the two across suppliers is where most of the bad results come from.

Where is the studio?

Studio 15, Shoreditch Park Studios, 49-50 Eagle Wharf Road, London N1 7ED, a few minutes from Old Street and Hoxton stations.

Keep reading

Case study: a tailoring catalogue

Shoulder line and collar shape were the product, so flat lay was never an option.

Product photography

Flat lay, on model and detail work for ecommerce and launch campaigns.

Flat lay photography

How invisible mannequin's flatter sibling gets shot, and when to use it instead.

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